Thanksgiving 2011: Special “New Frangland” Edition.
Part III. Turkey Delivery
Happy New Year, dearest faithful and hopelessly sexually repressed readers. Forgive the brevity, but commuting has sapped free time. Consider relieving your New Year’s Eve shame with this delightful –albeit tardy- ultimate TG2011 installment as you hopelessly milk the clock –managers or worker bees alike.
Hell, its been almost 6 weeks and at this point flexing any turkeyday muscles is just a formality. Still, if a pair of contraceptive diaphragms remain in your desk drawer and weren’t taken to your holiday party, put them in over your glasses because you are about to get fucked in the eyes.
A delectable variety of seasonally appropriate garden accoutrements preceded the roast of honor.
Brussels sprouts, savory and tart. Blanched in water seasoned to theWestern Atlantic’s liking then agitated with red onions cooked in plenty of lard and made vibrant with lemon juice.
Heirloom cauliflower à la Polonaise. Yellow, purple, and romanesco. A béchamel supplemented with the stalks. Eggs barely boiled, split and nestled within the brassica valleys. A generous dusting of lemon zest, garlic and bread crumbs toasted in poultry fat –butter not readily available from a turkey no matter how hard you milk it. Given the tanning salon treatment in an oven until deliciously crunchy. Verdant, tender, firm, rich, crisp, saucy, hearty.
And then there was the heritage Virginia bird. Brined in a solution of salt and maple syrup. Left to dry overnight then roasted over a bedding of vegetable aromatics and sliced lemon to the goldest of golden.
As for the leggy appendages, ballotines, naturally. Puréed, seasoned garnish with thigh meat, fatback, cranberries, fatback and expertly rolled up, as one would an XXXL reefer and roasted with fresh cranberries and chestnuts. Superb.
No bird can go to the ball without a proper dressing, or in this case, saupiquet –a gravy made from reduced turkey stock and thickened with the seared liver. Then some confit gizzard chopped up in there.
Pan Coudoun.Languedocfavorite. Candied quince baked in whole wheat bread. Chewy crumb, aromatic crust, sweet filling.
Pumpkin and ricotta frangipane tart. Courtesy a friend in the industry. To top it; honey-cream cheese iced cream. Wonderfully flaky crust. Fragrant frangipane, sweet pumpkin and just a little bit of sour from the ricotta. A fitting closure washed down with Pachernc.
An exceptional evening whose fare was only made as enjoyable as the company.
Thank you guests.